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2. Saving our treasures
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Afghan heritage: time to exile? | Mali: when farmers become curators | Homecoming for the totem poles | Sleuthing with Italy’s art squad | The Getty’s mea culpa | “We have to change the buyer’s attitude” |

Desert glory:
the story of the Moches

The proud descendants of the Lord of Sipán
Interview by Asbel López, UNESCO Courier journalist.
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Walter Alva: cultivating local pride.


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Moche culture



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Comic strips tell the story of Sipán and guard against looting.




Desert glory:
the story of the Moches

photo
A death mask.

Around a thousand years before the Incas, between the first and seventh centuries A.D., the Moches occupied a 600-kilometre wide band of desert off the northern coast of Peru, sandwiched by the Pacific Ocean and the Andes. Only a civilization with highly developed technical resources could have survived in one of the world’s most arid regions. The Moches achieved this feat by developing a complex network of irrigation canals supplying water to double the amount of land now cultivated in the same valleys. Divided into small dominions ruled by autocratic lords, the Moches built giant adobe buildings in the shape of truncated pyramids, the most outstanding example of which is the 35-metre high Huaca del Sol. They also engaged in pioneering metal production, particularly with copper, and established sophisticated textile workshops.The discovery in 1987 of the tomb close to the town of Sipán belonging to a dignitary in one of the Moches’ royal families has enabled researchers to learn much more about a hitherto largely unknown civilization.

As the current guardian of the tomb of the Lord of Sipán—the biggest archaeological find in Latin America in recent decades—Peruvian archaeologist Walter Alva explains how the village of Lambayeque has profited from a treasure miraculously saved from looters and international smugglers

How was the Lord of Sipán discovered?
When our team reached the site on February 25, 1987, it was already being extensively pillaged by grave-robbers, who had stripped pieces of gold from one tomb. Local people had taken control of the monument, and in the grip of a kind of gold-fever, were trying to break into other tombs in search of more precious metals. If we hadn’t done anything, the site would have very quickly been totally destroyed, as has already occurred in many other sites like Vicus, Lomanegra, Frías and the Valley of Jequetepeque. Peru was then in a serious economic and moral crisis. People thought it was crazy for the police to protect an archaeological treasure that they believed was their rightful property. The situation was very tense, and the only way to save the monument was either to mount a heavy police guard or turn it into an archaeological site, which is what we eventually did.

What financial backing did you have at the start?
Very little. Three hundred dollars from a local foundation, government assistance to hire 20 labourers and, somewhat later, money from a brewery. Hiring the labourers not only meant the site could be cleaned up, but also eased the tension with local people by giving them work. One grave-robber died in a clash with police as the monument was being repossessed.

Was there any help from abroad?
We received aid from the Heinz Foundation and from National Geographic in mid-1987 when we were certain that it was a very important find. The main tomb of the Lord of Sipán contained a body wrapped in hundreds of copper, gold and silver objects that were part of the funeral hoard. But the copper items were disturbingly corroded and needed urgent restoration. Fortunately the Roman-Germanic Museum in Mainz (Germany) offered to restore about 560 pieces and train technicians to run a small workshop funded by German aid money which we established in Lambayeque after 1990.

Why was this necessary?
We needed it to restore fresh finds. When we discovered a new tomb in 1989 belonging to the Old Lord of Sipán that was just as opulent and important as the first one, the pieces were restored by Peruvian technicians to exactly the same effect as the earlier ones had been in Germany. This laboratory, which has been partly funded since 1992 by the Spanish government, has also restored artefacts from other digs. Our curators, four of whom were trained in Madrid, have also taught a course in metal conservation to Latin American technicians. We have been entirely self-sufficient since 1998, which goes to show how international aid creates a lasting momentum.

The United States has managed to recover and return to Peru various items stolen previously from a tomb in Sipán. How important is that help?
It’s crucial. In 1987, a gang of smugglers tried to sell one of the ornaments for $1.6 million in a scandal involving several diplomats. Luckily, the United States restricted the import of pieces from the Lord of Sipán’s tomb in 1990. This law could only be extended once, but after it finally expired a memorandum of understanding was signed in 1998 covering not only items from Sipán, but also almost all the Peruvian heritage currently held in the United States. I think all countries should have agreements like that: it’s the only way to close ranks against these crimes, which affect so many countries with an extraordinary past but a troubled present. It’s also a matter of respect. Just as we respect human rights, self-determination, sovereignty and the environment, so we should place the protection of people’s heritage on the world’s list of priorities.

Has the hostility of the village changed?
A lot. Right from the start we tried hard to regain their trust. We allowed about 6,000 people in the region to visit the site, for example. They could witness the public and national importance of the dig, which was carried out exclusively by Peruvians and whose discoveries belonged to the Peruvian nation–and not to a bunch of grave-robbers.

Are the local people happy with its effect on their lives?
There’s no way of course that the discovery will solve the economic crisis, but we have managed to get the Lambayeque region on the tourist circuit. Local people are getting their self-respect back and now feel proud of being descendants of the Moche culture, which has generated such admiration around the world. National Geographic has devoted reports to the site and foreign television stations from Japan, Australia, the United States and Chile have filmed it. There are now colleges, universities, restaurants and shops named after the Lord of Sipán. The name has entered the language and enhanced the region’s identity. People have been able to see for themselves the very positive effects of the discovery and the archaeological project to save it.

How is work going on the new museum?
It’s more than a museum. We want to make it into a centre that can act as a magnet for cultural, tourist and scientific development in the region. It should be open by the end of this year. There’ll be 3,000 square metres of exhibits, incorporating the latest innovations in museum presentation and situated on seven hectares of land alongside laboratories and botanical gardens. We want it to be “the” Peruvian museum of the millennium.

plus
www.telefonica.com.pe/sipan/hallazgo.htm

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