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This park is no longer your land

Tales of white elephants
Eddie Koch, director of the Mafisa Research and Planning Agency and freelance writer
photo
A new mission for protected areas? Tourists glide along Botswana’s Okavango Delta, led by local guides.
Foreign companies keep the lion’s share of ecotourism profits but the Makuleke of South Africa are trailblazing a juicy commercial venture based on their firm control of ancestral land and resources

Winning back land rights is one side of the battle waged by indigenous people, finding ways to live off the earth is another. Is ecotourism the answer?
Not always says a study conducted for the Ford Foundation by Mafisa Research and Planning, a South African agency specialized in ecotourism. It examined the economics of about 30 game lodges in national parks and game reserves across southern Africa, which is fast becoming a prime tourist desti-
nation.

Bottom of the ladder jobs
Until recently, the upscale lodges dotting the wilderness were excluded from the state-owned national parks, where hunting is also prohibited. This is beginning to change as ongoing land reforms, which began in the mid-1990s, give indigenous people often chased from their lands during apartheid, the right to use them for sustainable commercial activities, particularly in the field of ecotourism.
On the books, ecotourism rings like a sensible way out of poverty and underdevelopment. The U.S. based International Ecotourism Society defines it as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and sustains the well-being of local people.”
Yet few studies have actually examined its impact on local people’s livelihoods, making the Ford study something of a landmark. Its conclusion: local residents in southern Africa generally get a raw deal, amounting to little more than a few poorly paid and unskilled jobs. Most of the money spent goes to foreign-owned airlines, hotels, travel agencies and transportation companies, along with consumer goods produced abroad to satisfy tourists’ tastes. Indeed, the World Bank estimates that 55 percent of tourist spending in developing countries eventually leaks back to the North, while some organizations put the rate at 90 percent, especially in southern Africa.
There are, however, a few countervailing examples in the region. In the far north of South Africa’s famed Kruger National Park, about 900 families belonging to the Makuleke tribe have won back the rights to own and use about 25,000 hectares of one of the park’s most spectacular landscapes which, according to some experts, contains up to two-thirds of its biodiversity. They are now dealing with a commercial operator, Matswani Safaris, to develop a luxury 24-bed lodge, along with a tent-camp and even a museum. Instead of resettling on the land, they have decided to use it as an economic base for their villages on the park’s frontier.
In addition to lodging, the Makuleke have also decided to offer some trophy hunting, arranged by a private safari company. Last year, two elephants and two buffaloes were hunted, which brought about $57,000 for local development projects (and meat which was distributed among Makuleke villages). The yields are supposed to increase this year (including animals like nyala and zebra), which adds fuel to a simmering controversy about trophy hunting in general. However, the Makuleke leaders vow to phase out the hunt once the other tourism projects turn a decent profit.

Negotiating power
When running at 60 percent capacity, the lodge will pay rent of $75,000 a year to the Makuleke people, in addition to about $150,000 in yearly wages to local employees. In total, the programme should inject some $35,000 a year into the coffers of the Makuleke—roughly $400 per family, in a region where four out of every ten adults is unemployed and the average annual wage is about $750.
Projects like this offer food for thought on the eve of the United Nations Year of Ecotourism, slated for 2002. One of the keys lies in equal terms: where local residents have strong rights over their wildlife and other natural resources, they can negotiate with private operators to ensure that their interests—financial, cultural and environmental—are protected.

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