Fashioning Africa's future: UNESCO showcases first-ever report on the continent’s fashion sector at Lagos Fashion Week

On 26 October 2023, UNESCO launched its first-ever report on the African fashion industry entitled The African Fashion Sector: Trends, Challenges & Opportunities for Growth at the prestigious Lagos Fashion Week in Lagos, Nigeria. More than 150 people attended the event, including fashion professionals, government officials, journalists, investors, fashion students and international organization representatives, as well as many more who tuned into the livestream from around the world. The event was opened by Ms. Audrey Azoulay, UNESCO Director-General, H.E. Tanko Sununu, Minister of State for Education in Nigeria, Ms. Toke Benson-Awoyinka, the Honourable Commissioner for Tourism, Arts and Culture in Lagos State, and Ms. Omoyemi Akerele, Founder and Executive Director of Lagos Fashion Week. 

In his opening remarks, H.E. Tanko Sununu noted that “the fashion industry is not only about looking good – but looking good is good business too,” recognizing the potential of the fashion sector as a driver of sustainable development. “The fashion sector contributes to intra and inter-African trade, international export potential, job creation and inclusive growth,” he added. 

“Fashion is much more than an economic asset. It is also a powerful lever for the promotion of cultural diversity, for the rediscovery of intangible cultural heritage and for the empowerment of young people and women.”

Audrey Azoulay, UNESCO Director-General

The opening ceremony was followed by a lively panel discussion with renowned fashion designers on the role of African designers as powerful catalysts for change. Prominent industry figures addressed different key dynamics shaping Africa’s fashion sector, including environmental sustainability, the rise of e-commerce, women and youth empowerment as well as the need for more formal education and training opportunities. The panelists included: Mr. Imane Ayissi, Artistic Director of Atelier Imane Ayissi; Ms. Nelly Hagen-Deegbe, Founder of Duaba Serwa; Ms. Nkwo Onwuka,Founder of Nkwo; Mr. Moulaye Tabouré, Co-Founder and CEO of ANKA; Mr. Mossi Traoré, Artistic Director, Founder of MOSSI. The roundtable was moderated by Ms. Omoyemi Akerele and Mr. Toussaint Tiendrebeogo, Chief of the Diversity of Cultural Expressions Entity of UNESCO. During this discussion, two inspiring testimonies were delivered by Ms. Reni Abina, Creative Director and Founder of Rendoll, and Ms. Lulu Shabell, Founder of LULUBELL Group. 

“Africa has its own textile heritage that exists […] We must celebrate African artisans. We must show to the eyes of the world this wealth that Africa has.”

Imane Ayissi, Artistic Director of Atelier Imane Ayissi

Another key aspect discussed was the role of fashion and heritage textiles in reshaping narratives about the continent. “We just have to tell our authentic stories [..] If your story is true and authentic, the market will come to you – you don’t have to chase it,” underlined Ms. Nkwo Onwuka.

During the event, the UNESCO Director-General announced that the Organization will support the entrepreneurial projects of 30 young Nigerian women designers in the framework of an ongoing partnership with the fashion house DIOR. Since 2021, this partnership has enabled more than 500 young women from over 50 African and Asian countries to develop projects in the cultural and creative sectors.

UNESCO’s commitment to the development of a dynamic creative economy in Africa is in line with the principles set out in the UNESCO Convention on the Protection and Promotion of the Diversity of Cultural Expressions and the Organization’s Priority Africa Programme. 

This new Africa Fashion Sector report is part of a series of thematic reports produced by UNESCO on the strategic importance of cultural and creative industries in Africa, including a report on African cinema published in 2021, The African Film Industry: Trends, Challenges and Opportunities for Growth, and an upcoming publication on the African Book Sector (2024).